Don’t go to Saba Island in the Caribbean
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Don’t go to Saba Island if you are looking for a beach; you won’t find one on this Dutch Caribbean island. There are no concrete high-rises on this island that bills itself as the “Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean.” You won’t find a stoplight, bugs, fast food, crime, or cruise ships. Instead, charming, white wooden cottages with forest-green shutters and red-tin roofs punctuate the island’s hills.
It’s not for people looking for a beach escape, umbrella drinks, or tan lines. It’s for the curious culture hunters, the ones who can appreciate the quirkiness of small-town island living. If you are reading this and thinking, “This sounds like travel paradise! This is my kind of destination”, then you and I are on the same wavelength.
Table of Contents
Is Saba for you?
It’s actually easier to describe Saba Island (pronounced SAY-BA) by what it lacks than by what it does have. Saba, or Isla de Saba, is the smallest of the Caribbean islands but also the most unique. Like the island of Molokai in Hawaii, it is not trying to be a big tourist destination like its Caribbean neighbors. Instead, it is more interested in maintaining its quirkiness, uniqueness, and secret status.
Saba is not a country; it’s part of the Caribbean Netherlands, officially called the Saba Netherlands Antilles. Saba is also a Caribbean island anomaly, the tip of a now-dormant underwater volcano with no beaches except for the tiny black-sand “disappearing beach” at Well’s Bay.
Saba (population 2,000) is not for the tourism masses; it’s for rare pioneers who like exploring the lesser-traveled roads.
For travelers looking for the quiet Caribbean, an island with old-world charm, look no further. If this sounds like you, read on to find out why I fell in love with Saba Island. This small island captured my curiosity and awoke my inner explorer.
What Will You Find on Saba Island?
World’s Shortest Commercial Runway
Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport, built in 1963, literally put Saba Antilles on the map by opening them up to tourism, but also because its runway was the shortest commercial runway in the world. At only 1,300 feet, it’s just a few feet longer than some aircraft carriers! I love landing in remote, hard-to-get-to places; this landing with cliffs on both sides was what enticed me to Saba in the first place.
You’ll get the real sense of landing on an aircraft carrier as you’ll see the waters of Cove Bay to the left and the Caribbean Sea to the right of the runway. The approach is practically at a cliff; the rugged terrain of Saba blocks out the entire sky as you peer over the shoulders of your pilots.
Watch my Instagram story from that day:
Would you prefer not to fly? Check out this full-day ferry ride to Saba
Beaches
Actually, Saba does have two very, very small beaches (hard even to call them beaches), at Cove Bay by the airport and at Wells Bay on the western side of the island. However, beaches are not an attraction on this small island. If you are looking for beaches, you had better stick to the other Caribbean islands.
World-Class Scuba Diving
Saba’s deep waters are known for their world-class diving. Scuba divers were the first to arrive and fall in love with Saba’s world-class water. The region boasts one of the healthiest oceans in the world with spectacular pinnacles (islands of volcanic rock that never formed), stunning seamounts, drop-offs, walls, thriving coral reefs, and caves that start 40 feet deep.
Scuba divers now have a new find to explore off the Saban coast. During a sea-floor survey, the Saba Archaeological Center discovered two large ship cannons, one nearly 8.2 feet long, crossed on top of each other. They appear to have been sunk to reduce the weight of a ship or perhaps to keep them from enemy hands since there’s no evidence of a shipwreck nearby.
While scuba diving, you’ll see a mind-boggling variety of fish – sharks, turtles, and marine life- that you wouldn’t normally see in the Caribbean Sea. Credit goes to the sustainability-minded residents. They chose to establish a National Marine Park circling the island in 1987 before any damage was done. All marine life is protected around the island.
Snorkeling
However, even for the non-divers like me, there are still a few places to snorkel! We went out snorkeling near Wells Bay. The coral reefs were lovely and colorful; however, I will admit it was a bit deep for snorkeling. Regardless, I would suggest this snorkeling to anyone as it’s a super way to get out on the water and see the rugged landscape of this island from a completely different perspective. I was in awe of the views and the sheer cliffs above the sea floor and below the water!
Hiking
Saba may be known for its wonderful people and its excellent diving, but the real hidden secret is hiking! This is a hiker’s paradise with three different ecosystems on this little 5-square-mile island! You can experience the rain forest, dry forests, and coastal/tide pools hiking trails. There are about 20 different trails with miles and miles of hiking to incredible views.
Would you prefer not to fly? Check out this Saba Day Trip from St Maarten
Saba’s Diverse Ecosystems
On this five-square-mile island, you will experience three distinct ecosystems: coastal/tide pool, dry forest, and rain/elfin forest. Where else can you experience such diversity in such a small place? Nowhere.
I went hiking with Crocodile James, a local hiking guide (and all-around interesting and quirky guy), to experience hiking in Saba’s three ecosystems. The hiking on Saba is challenging, considering the only piece of flat land on the island is the 1,300-foot airport runway! Be ready to sweat!
Expect a lot of up and down and even some scrambling at times. However, the trails are maintained extremely well by the Saba Conservation Foundation. You can tell that hiking on Saba is revered by the locals based on how well they take care of the trails.
Mount Scenery and its surrounding areas were designated a national park in 2018. Together, they cover 26% of the island’s total area.
The Sandy Cruz Trail to the summit of Mount Scenery is the most popular trek, frequented by locals and day-trippers alike. Reaching the peak at 2,910 feet requires climbing 1064 stairs. Fun trivia fact: Mt. Scenery is actually the tallest peak in the Netherlands!
At the top, you will be rewarded with a captivating cloud forest replete with 200-year-old mahogany trees. About halfway through, the trees part, revealing stunning views of St. Maarten and other islands beyond. They don’t call it Mount Scenery for nothing!
Windwardside
Windwardside is the most tourist-oriented village. Drop by the Saba Tourist Bureau and say hello; you’ll be within close proximity to three of the Saba hotels and home to many vacation rental cottages. You’ll have no trouble passing a day wandering through small streets, exploring the museums and shops, and a bite to eat is never far away.
Art
Saba isn’t only about adrenaline-inducing hiking and diving—it also has a really strong arts scene. For a morning, I got hands-on experience creating glass beads and jewelry with JoBean Glass Art. With a little instruction, I was suddenly creating glass beads—I was surprised at how fast it could be done!
JoBean sells Saba-inspired glass art and jewelry at her workshop or at Kokona, a small art-themed gift shop in the Windwardside. Island artisans fill the shop with creative works of art, from food and drink to sculpture and paintings.
In addition to glass art on Saba Island, there are a number of new art classes popping up around Saba. Maybe you also want to try your creativity at jewelry making, tie dye, or other textiles. They even offer classes where you can do crafts and cocktails at the same time, amping up your creativity!
Saba Lace
Keep your eye out for Saba lace, a needlecraft that arrived on the island in the 1870s. Saba Lace is a hand-stitched lace that the island’s women began making in the late 19th century and built into a thriving mail-order business with the United States. Originally known as Spanish Work, Sabans made it their own, and Saba lace is still created and can be purchased in several locations around the island today.
Saba Spice
You know I enjoy a drink now and then, so when I learned about Saba Spice, a homemade spiced rum made only on the island in people’s homes, I was pretty excited to learn more. Each family has its own secret recipe.
I went to learn how to make Saba Spice with Lucy, a local who still lives in the 112-year-old house she grew up in! Made with fennel, cinnamon, clove, brown sugar, water, and 151-proof rum, I watched as Lucy cooked it up in a big pot on her stove. It cooks for hours and makes the whole house smell delicious!
Most locals drink it after dinner with ice. However, I had it as a Saba Spice Sour—with lemon juice and a little sugar water. Many Sabans also cook with it, as it adds so much flavor to meats and French toast. You can even pour it over ice cream!
Gin and Tonic Tasting
If Saba Spice isn’t your thing – but you enjoy a good drink – then check out Chez Bubba’s for their gin & tonic tasting! Local bartender Duco Van Grieken will astonish you with his gin & tonic tasting. With more than 25 different types of gin and numerous types of tonic, Duco will create combinations that you will have never tried before.
Harry L. Johnson Museum
This 19th-century sea captain’s cottage is located in the historical district of Windwardside. It is situated in a meadow surrounded by beautiful flowers. The cottage houses a variety of artifacts from archaeological excavations on the island, as well as period furnishings. Exhibits include collections from the 19th and early 20th centuries.
A Human Bird’s Nest
There aren’t many Saba Island resorts, but the ones they have are special. Bird’s Nest at Queen’s Hotel (temporarily closed as of 2024) has a private, intimate dining table built high up in the middle of a hundred-year-old mango tree. You can dine in a tree while watching the Caribbean Sea or the stars at night as you enjoy a delicious meal delivered by your personal waiter.
I dined with my friend Susan in the ‘nest,’ and between delicious courses, we gushed at how romantic this place would be if we had been with a significant other! So, when our waiter asked if it was ok if we took our dessert down below on the ground so that someone could use the nest to propose, we graciously gave up our perch in the name of love. And by the way – she said “yes”!
The Road
As if landing on Saba wasn’t scary enough, then you get in a car and drive on the narrow, winding road. I’m not sure which panicked me more – the airport runway or the road! From the airport up to the Windward Side, you’ll experience 23 turns – most of them hairpins. Simply referred to as “The Road,” it stretches 10 miles from one side to the other.
Sabans used to traverse the island by trail, but in the late 1930s, the decision to build a concrete road was made. Dutch & Swiss Civil Engineers said building a road on Saba wasn’t possible. Thus, the road got its title, “The Road that Couldn’t be Built.” However, a local man, Josephus Lambert Hassell, took it on as a challenge. The first stage of the road was inaugurated in 1943.
There are no stoplights, a smattering of stop signs, and no straightaways. You’ll find the busiest corner in the Windward Side at a T intersection where the road narrows and tends to back up during ‘rush hour’. And if you are looking for some tummy-tingling excitement – just head to Wells Bay, where you’ll experience road grades so steep that you’ll be nervous to even walk down them. It was like going down a roller coaster where your butt lifts off the seat! I’m pretty sure that the most important shop on the island is a brake shop.
Saba Lobster
Saba lobster (better known as Caribbean spiny lobster because it has no claws) is known throughout the Caribbean islands. The claw-less lobsters are found in the Saba Bank. No, this has nothing to do with currency. The Saba Bank is a 60-mile-long stretch of submerged atoll a few miles off the coast. It’s a place particularly rich in biodiversity and spiny lobster. Many of the restaurants on Saba have fresh Saba lobster in tanks that you can choose from. And in November the island has its very own Lobster fest!
Discover how many ways there are to eat lobster
An island like no other
This tiny island is like no other; it may be small and lack a proper beach, but it has a uniqueness that I love. Saba isn’t for everyone – but it is for me!
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Where to stay in Saba
Juliana’s Hotel
While in Saba, I stayed at Juliana’s Hotel in Windwardside, which has turned out to be the best place on the island. The owners, Johanna and Wim, are young and fun. They seem to be the social directors on the island, holding happy hours, educational video nights, and art/cocktail parties! Johanna grew up on the island, and her mother is a local artist.
We stayed in an old 1877 Saban cottage, but the hotel also has regular hotel rooms and suites. My highlights were the old (and moody) cat Zion and the blow-up black swan that lived in the swimming pool! The prices hover around $160 to $220 and include breakfast and an airport shuttle.
Check prices and availability for Juliana’s Hotel | Read reviews for Juliana’s Hotel on TripAdvisor
Saba Arawak Hotel
Also in Windwardside, Saba Arawak Hotel has a restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, terrace, and garden. All rooms have a balcony with a city view.
Check prices and availability for the Saba Arawak Hotel | Read reviews for the Saba Arawak Hotel on TripAdvisor
More information about Saba Island
Does anyone live on Saba Island?
Saba has a small population. The majority of the residents are of Dutch descent, and the island also has a diverse community of expatriates. Saban houses are well kept, the gardens are full of flowers, and the doors seldom lock. The Sabans’ friendliness is unquestionable, and everyone knows everybody.
What language is spoken on Saba?
Saba boasts a mixed population of European, African, and Latin descendants who speak English, Dutch, and Spanish.
When is the best time to visit Saba Island?
The best time to visit Saba is during the dry season, which typically runs from December to April. This period offers pleasant weather with fewer chances of rain and more sunshine. The temperatures are generally comfortable for outdoor activities and exploring the island’s natural beauty.
However, Saba has a tropical climate, and brief rain showers can still occur even during the dry season. If you prefer to avoid crowds and get better deals on accommodations, consider visiting during the shoulder seasons (November and May) when the weather is still relatively good but tourist numbers are lower.
On the other hand, the rainy season, which occurs between May and November, can bring heavier rainfall and occasional hurricanes, making some outdoor activities less favorable. For a more enjoyable experience on Saba, it’s best to plan your trip during the dry season.
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Disclosure:
I was a guest of Saba tourism for this trip, however all opinions expressed here are my own.
What a pity that in this article all about culture and cultural heritage is missing. Speaking about the history and more of traditional cottages, about village views, about remainders of 17th century plantations and pre-columbian excavations, about museums and the West-India Company etc.
Sorry it didn’t meet your needs. However, I do have more articles on Saba coming. Yet I do mainly write about adventure travel and hiking, so I focus quite a bit on that throughout my blog. I loved it there, but I was unable to get to the museum while I was there.
Saba is magical and is rich in so many ways! I have visited and dream of living there one day as a permanent resident. I think the article is dead on and allows the reader to do a bit of research and discovery on there own.
Thanks for the kind words. I too fell in love with Saba – I don’t think I’d ever want to go anywhere else in the Caribbean!
I am a Saban and I really enjoyed reading your article. You described our Unspoiled Queen to the T. The hike up Mount Scenery, the highest point of the Dutch Kingdom, is especially beautiful too. On clear days you can see all around the entire island from up top. I’m glad you enjoyed your stay and hope you will visit us again.
Thanks Tracy – glad you enjoyed it! I loved it there – and I didn’t even have a chance to hike up to Mt. Scenery!! But that is just a reason to come back!
I would consider changing that title. It is being perceived in a negative way.
Did you read the article? The article is positive in every way.
Absolutely loved this island from the very first time we visited it. We would pop over on a ferry (the Edge ) from Sint Maarten, almost every year, and spend that day exploring Saba , it’s trails, handicraft shops, museums, etc. The local folks are a real treasure and their history also.
Thank You Very Much for Sharing this Nice Article. Really I Want to go There. Your All Pictures are MindBlowing.
This island sounds wonderful – that amazing seafood sold it to me!
Saba is now on my list of places to visit. Sounds absolutely magical.
Loved Saba: met a lovely man, Brother Riley of The Bottom, who claims to have had the pleasure of bringing the then teen-aged Princess Juliana to shore from her ship when she was visiting the island from Holland all those years ago. Delightful man! Also the diving was spectacular! Lovely memories of a lovely relaxing time!
https://www.followsummer.com/st-maarten/the-bottom/
How fortunate to be able to visit such a beautiful place, excellent work, they bring me closer to fabulous places and even make me feel that I really travel to those places. Thank you!
Went to Saba a few years ago to visit family, it was my first visit. Found the flight in and out very exciting, sat up front and had a front row seat on landing and taking off.
Hopefully I can return there one day.
I believe there was a tiny beach , but it depended on the tide , so you have to be ready 🙂
yes – it was only ‘available’ for part of the year – the rest of the year the ‘beach’ is all rocks.
Hi,
I would like to know if it is possible to move there and rent a small cottage/log cabin.
What is the procedure?
I’m Dutch, living in the mountains of Tenerife, with my dog, for 6 years now.
Please contact me for more info.
Thank you
Alexandra – I’m sorry but I have no idea how to move there – I was just vacationing there. However people relocate there all the time – so I’m sure it’s possible!
Hi sherry!
Thanks for your reply.
What was your overall impression of the island, people, expenses, internet access, infrastructure?
I’m a hiker and adore the mountains and forests. Beaches are not important to me. That’s why I thought this island would be perfect for me, as there are no beach tourists…
Thanks in advance!
Thank you so much for providing great insights to this island. Very useful.
HI Sherry,
I love you article, Saba is our home and my favorite place in the world. Just one little remark. When I was reading your header, I actually closed the window. Eventually I went back to read it. Please consider changing it, I believe people will not read it just because.
Sherry,
I have to laugh… it was the title of your article that made me want to read it! I used to live in Antigua when I was in the navy. But it was too ‘busy’. Beautiful beaches though. But to find an island of such beauty that is also unspoiled is a dream come true. Don’t change the title. You nailed it.
Jim
Thanks Jim!
Hi Sherry! Liked your small blog on Saba. I was wandering how far the Canadian currancy goes there. Looks like a lot of fun away from the typical beach scene. Is there any medicine there?
Hi Erik – I don’t have any idea what the exchange rate is for Canadian currency there – but you can easily check online. However – I will say that overall the prices weren’t like St. Martin – they were reasonable…but remember it is an island and getting supplies is expensive for them! I hope you go visit – it’s incredible!!
Wonderful article on Saba. You truly captured the essence of the initial experience. There are so many magical things about Saba that I fell in love at first sight. My late husband and I were scuba divers and we first stayed on Saba in 2011. In 2013, I bought a house there. One of the tiny but so lovely original cottages, Daphne Cottage. It was built in 1842 and has been lovingly maintained ever since. I have not been fortunate enough to live on Saba full time (yet), but we do get to spend several months at a time there. Reading this article was like a love letter from home. I love the people of Saba most of all and they have loved me right back for years. I’ve traveled a good bit in my time, but nothing compares to Saba for me.
Thanks for your kind words! I loved it there – it really captured my heart!
I was so fascinated by Saba that 40 years ago my husband and small daughter and I stayed on Sint Maarten. I was drawn to Saba like Bali Hi in film.
I flew over for the day. I was enchanted. I hiked up the mountain trail part way.
I was struck by the fact that most Sabans at that time resembled each other. Probably genetically true. Many had the same last name.
Wish I could order the Saba Spice wine.
I am old now but cherish that I went there.
Linda Woods
Spokane, Washington
Great memories Linda! I too wish I could order Saba Spice – mine is all gone already!
If you need to go to the hospital for something, where is the closest large one?
You would have to go to Saint Martin for anything serious.
We sail there every year and are excited to try the Queen’s Garden Resort to sit in the tree! We usually eat at Brigadoon which is always great but can’t wait to try that one. Thanks!
There is actually a medical school on Saba that is pretty good
Thank you for your informative article. My grandfather was from Saba Island, James Hassell and I’ve been wanting to travel to Saba Island for many years to see where he was from and meet some distant relatives. Reading your article made me anxious to get there soon.
I hope you get to visit soon – it’s such a special place!
During my life this is a lifetime memory. In 1994 I visited st. Maarten, st. Eustasy and St. Saba. Arrived with a small Fokker plane (max 9 person’s) this is absolutely paradise. With a guide went into the volcano, surprisedly a tropical forest with colorful tropical birds and butterflies. Wonderful people and the best experience in life.
I agree!
What a great read. I was there for a day back in the 80’s. A Barefoot Cruise went there. It was magical then and your article brought some of that magic back to me. We anchored off shore and a tender brought us to a tiny doc. A beat up old taxi took us up to the village. I bought Saba lace as a gift and Saba spice and just enjoyed walking around in the cooler air. Later I swam from the boat to the rocky black volcanic beach. I had never seen black sand before. The water was so clear I got scared at first, I felt like I was falling!
I am thinking now of going back for a stay. Thanks!!
I am sooo excited to read all of these lovely notes! I will be flying to St Maarten next Tuesday with my wife and 3 other couples.
We will be staying in a Villa for 4 nights and I am giggling about the experience after all I have read!
World class scuba, hiking and great food … how can it get better than that?
Enjoy your trip! And the lobster!
I read this article because friends went there sailing and said it was wonderful! I almost skipped your article because of the title. After all I am not interested in why I should not go to a place that I know is wonderful. Turned out it is a positive article with a negative title. I recommend changing it is you want more readers. On the other hand do not if you want Saba to remain a secret – which also sounds like a great idea!
I lived there for seven years. I’ve never experienced anything quite like it since. The dive boat in the photo is Giant Stride. The shop’s other boat is named Seadragon. I used to drive both of them for Sea Saba. I won’t go on because I will be here all night going on and on and on. It seems like much more than seven years worth of memories.
Saba does have two very, very small beaches, at Cove Bay by the airport and at Wells Bay on the western side of the island.
I was also there on a “Barefoot” cruis, before the airport!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was a real experience a real island community